Back from Russia with love…

I left London at 14:00 on a Friday afternoon, self-assured that everything is in place. Visa – check, accommodation – check, money and phone – check. What could possibly go wrong! Well just because I had a visa, didn’t mean they have to like me and help me sail through if I smiled right. A South African on business, ya right! Can everyone spell SUSPICIOUS? So there I was, moving more slowly forward than a sheep balancing on the end of a cliff. And Petyr didn’t fill in an arrival card…back of the queue. And the nice Russian lady goes home (with only 3 people left in her queue)…back of the next queue, oh and only 30 minutes left to get to the next terminal for my domestic departure. SHIT!!! Eventually after being royally ripped off by a box-car racer aka: taxi drivers in Moscow; I arrived at terminal 1. Only problem is terminal 1 and terminal 2 are 15 kilometres apart (for convenience I suppose)!!! Terminal 1, in Moscow on a Friday night is something like what the Great Wall of Berlin must have looked like when it tumbled down. One big mess with shit loads of people running into every direction. So I successfully managed to miss my flight to Rostov-on-Don, where I had to deliver presentations to crowds of curious students in the morning. The time now is 11pm. It took 7 different people (“Sorry, no speak a English”) to find the right person, who thankfully spoke some English. Finally that smile I had been practising earlier paid off and I managed to worm my way onto the next flight. Time is now 3am.
I’m in a plane that surely did time during the world wars. The inside is decorated with what looks like cheap kitchen wallpaper from Pep and I think my food just kicked. None the less I have a huge smile on my face. Shit I’m flying over Russia!! From way up here it looks like one big piece of camouflage material. I imagined Russia, was once a huge alpine forest. Now there are flat clearings of brown frost-bitten land, where communities huddle in the cold. These areas eat into the forest but only for the space they need. The effect is spectacular. Dark green expanses of alpine forest blended into light brown areas of land, dotted with little red roves. Huge, old rivers snake further than I can see, cutting deep black arteries into the land. The last bits of winter’s snow also does it’s bit for the overall effect; all topped off with a crisp-orange sunrise. Absolutely surreal!
Rostov people were very friendly towards me, the obvious foreigner. Driving down the main road I noticed the buildings, roads, cars and general infrastructure to be a mixture of old post-Soviet style and more new, modern creations. I definitely felt like I was somewhere very far from the world that I know. Just for assurance that I was definitely in Russia, I see a giant grizzly grey man with a full smile of gold teeth and dead fur hat; driving down the road in a battered army-coloured lorry. I’m laughing.
Business went well in Rostov and we had plenty of time to enjoy our new surroundings. Museums with fascinating history of the Kosaks, cathedrals of significant size and importance, restaurants with horse, as the main course and vodka as compulsory, nightclubs with young Russian entertainers. Sadly I said farewell to Rostov, 2 days after arriving, but not before a young security officer at the airport tried ruffling my feathers by holding me in an interrogation room. His argument > "You no register". His aim > A $50 bribe. Hahahaha. I thought to myself while he was giving me a drilling, “You chose to try bribe a South African. You idiot...we invented bribery!!!" So after an hour he let me go, for only a handshake.
Back to Moscow and those blady terminals! Luckily this time I had all day to relax and find my way around, before working the next 2 days. Arrived at a posh hotel in centre of Moscow and spent the rest of the day exploring the Russian underground system. Exploring being the correct word as everything is in Russian and guestimation, one’s only hope. After a few wrong tube-rides I arrived at Kremlin and Red Square - the middle of Moscow. This architecture is something to marvel.
Business went well in Moscow and I managed to spend some time rubbing shoulders with some really interesting people. I met one particularly interesting man who put practice to the saying: “You don’t stop playing because you old… you old because you stop playing!” Don’t take things to seriously he said to me over a chilled vodka at 1am. Sounded too simple at the time but I think he was onto something there.
My last night in Moscow, I spent walking the streets taking it all in. I wonder when I will be back here?
Lata
I’m in a plane that surely did time during the world wars. The inside is decorated with what looks like cheap kitchen wallpaper from Pep and I think my food just kicked. None the less I have a huge smile on my face. Shit I’m flying over Russia!! From way up here it looks like one big piece of camouflage material. I imagined Russia, was once a huge alpine forest. Now there are flat clearings of brown frost-bitten land, where communities huddle in the cold. These areas eat into the forest but only for the space they need. The effect is spectacular. Dark green expanses of alpine forest blended into light brown areas of land, dotted with little red roves. Huge, old rivers snake further than I can see, cutting deep black arteries into the land. The last bits of winter’s snow also does it’s bit for the overall effect; all topped off with a crisp-orange sunrise. Absolutely surreal!
Rostov people were very friendly towards me, the obvious foreigner. Driving down the main road I noticed the buildings, roads, cars and general infrastructure to be a mixture of old post-Soviet style and more new, modern creations. I definitely felt like I was somewhere very far from the world that I know. Just for assurance that I was definitely in Russia, I see a giant grizzly grey man with a full smile of gold teeth and dead fur hat; driving down the road in a battered army-coloured lorry. I’m laughing.
Business went well in Rostov and we had plenty of time to enjoy our new surroundings. Museums with fascinating history of the Kosaks, cathedrals of significant size and importance, restaurants with horse, as the main course and vodka as compulsory, nightclubs with young Russian entertainers. Sadly I said farewell to Rostov, 2 days after arriving, but not before a young security officer at the airport tried ruffling my feathers by holding me in an interrogation room. His argument > "You no register". His aim > A $50 bribe. Hahahaha. I thought to myself while he was giving me a drilling, “You chose to try bribe a South African. You idiot...we invented bribery!!!" So after an hour he let me go, for only a handshake.
Back to Moscow and those blady terminals! Luckily this time I had all day to relax and find my way around, before working the next 2 days. Arrived at a posh hotel in centre of Moscow and spent the rest of the day exploring the Russian underground system. Exploring being the correct word as everything is in Russian and guestimation, one’s only hope. After a few wrong tube-rides I arrived at Kremlin and Red Square - the middle of Moscow. This architecture is something to marvel.
Business went well in Moscow and I managed to spend some time rubbing shoulders with some really interesting people. I met one particularly interesting man who put practice to the saying: “You don’t stop playing because you old… you old because you stop playing!” Don’t take things to seriously he said to me over a chilled vodka at 1am. Sounded too simple at the time but I think he was onto something there.
My last night in Moscow, I spent walking the streets taking it all in. I wonder when I will be back here?
Lata
P